Frequently Asked Questions

National cost guides put a typical repair around $238 to $1,487 (HomeAdvisor) or $400 to $1,000 (Fixr). A loose connection can be closer to $100, while HomeGuide puts the average inverter replacement at $1,500 to $3,000. Your written estimate after the diagnosis is the price.

Any qualified solar service company can work on your system, and plenty of Northwest Valley arrays have outlived the company that put them up. Bring whatever paperwork you have, such as the original contract or the inverter model, and we can usually work out the rest on site. Panel and inverter manufacturer warranties often still apply even after the installer is gone.

Check the inverter display or monitoring app on a clear day around midday. Production should look similar to the same month last year, allowing for slow aging. A flat line, a red or orange fault light, or a summer bill that jumped without a change in use are all signs to call.

Some drop on the hottest afternoons is normal, because panels lose power as they heat up and many inverters scale back output in very hot air. A drop that lasts all day, shows up in cooler months, or keeps getting worse is a fault worth tracing.

It depends on the utility and the change. If you are on APS, it treats a like-for-like swap with the same ratings as a minor modification, while growing the system by more than 1 kW or 10 percent requires a new interconnection application. Smaller changes use an Equipment Amendment form. We help you work out which one applies before the work starts.

Under A.R.S. 33-1816, an Arizona homeowners association cannot prohibit the installation or use of a solar energy device. It can set reasonable placement rules that do not impair how the system works. Some associations still want a form for exterior changes, so it is worth checking before a removal or mesh install.

HomeGuide puts string inverters at about 10 to 15 years and microinverters at about 15 to 25. Heat shortens the life of the capacitors inside, so a unit that sits in direct afternoon sun can wear out sooner than one in shade.

If production dropped suddenly, it is almost never just dirt, so start with a diagnosis. If output has slowly sagged since the last monsoon and the glass looks hazy, a cleaning may be all it needs. We can usually tell which from the monitoring data before anyone climbs on the roof.

Usually yes. The replacement has to match the panels' voltage and current and the size of the original system, which is how most swaps stay within the existing utility approval. Older panels often have plenty of life left even when the inverter is done.

Sometimes it makes sense, especially with shade or panels facing different directions. It costs more and changes the paperwork with the utility and the building department, so for most working arrays a matched string replacement is the simpler fix.

The install itself is often a few hours for a string unit. The wait is usually for the part and any permit or inspection, so we give you a schedule with the estimate.

Some do and some do not. If you think you may add storage, tell us before we quote so we can price a battery-ready option alongside a straight replacement.

Not always. Many inverters reduce output or pause when the air around them gets too hot. If it only happens on the hottest days and comes back on its own, shade or relocation may fix it. If it happens on mild days too, the unit likely needs replacing.

Some roofers will, but solar wiring is live whenever the sun is up, and reinstalling mounts on tile takes specific flashing work. Having the solar side handled separately also keeps it clear who is responsible if the system or a mount has a problem later.

That depends mostly on the roof work. Removal often takes a day, and reinstall another day or two once the roof is ready. You will not produce power in between, so many homeowners plan roof work for the cooler months.

Panel manufacturer warranties usually cover defects in the panel itself, and careful removal and handling should not change that. Workmanship warranties from the original installer may end once someone else touches the system, so check that paperwork before booking.

It can be. Replacing an aging inverter or adding bird mesh while the array is already apart saves a second trip. Adding panels or changing the inverter size, though, means more paperwork with the utility and the building department.

No drilling is involved. The clips grip the panel frame, and the mesh rests against the roof without screws through the tile. That keeps the roof sealed and the panel frames intact.

Spikes on the panel edge do not stop birds from walking in underneath, and decoys tend to stop working once birds get used to them. Closing the gap is the approach that keeps them out.

Not necessarily, but if neighbors with solar have pigeon problems, it is common for birds to move to the next array. Sealing a clean array costs less than cleaning out a full nest first.

Coated wire mesh is made to handle sun and weather for years. It is worth a look after major monsoon storms, since a hard gust or a branch can bend a section.

It depends on panel count, wattage, roof direction and tilt and the time of year. A quick comparison is the same month last year: allowing for about 1 percent of aging, a big gap points to a fault.

Most likely the system is running and the monitoring link dropped. Check whether your router or Wi-Fi password changed. If it did not, we can trace the communication problem.

In desert dust it can. HomeGuide reports dirty panels losing about 7 to 30 percent or more, and desert sites have seen up to 30 percent. A sudden drop is rarely dirt, though; dust builds up slowly.

Rate plan changes, higher use from cooling or a new appliance, and the way exports are credited can all raise a bill without any solar fault. We compare your production data with the bill so you know which it is.

It means the inverter detected current leaking to ground, usually through damaged insulation or water in conduit. The inverter shuts down to protect the house. The cause needs to be found and repaired before the system runs again.

Resetting a tripped solar breaker once is reasonable. If it trips again, stop and call, because repeated tripping points to a wiring, inverter or panel problem that needs testing.

Yes. A melted or scorched connector is a sign of heat from a poor connection and can lead to arcing. Turn the system off at the disconnect if it is safe to do so and have it checked.

A standard grid-tied system will not. Inverters are designed to shut down when the grid goes out so they do not send power onto lines crews are working on. Backup power requires a battery system designed for it.

Once or twice a year suits many homes, often after monsoon season and again in spring. Low-tilt arrays, homes near open desert and arrays with bird activity may need it more often. Your monitoring data is the best guide.

No. High pressure can force water past frame seals and damage the glass coating. A soft brush and low-pressure water are all panels need.

Not much here. With about 7 inches of rain a year at Phoenix Sky Harbor, and light monsoon showers often mixing with dust, rain tends to leave a muddy film rather than wash it away.

Cleaning the way the panel manufacturer recommends should not. Harsh chemicals, abrasive pads and pressure washers can, which is why we use soft water and soft brushes.